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In the west of France, cheese for all cows – Liberation

Who is raw milk?

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A group of farmers fight to protect Breton cattle breeds, which are disappearing in favor of their more profitable cousins. They are campaigning for the deindustrialization of wild cheese production.

In our country, out of 365 cheeses, about 10% of the production is raw milk. As well as “80% of milk production comes from one breed of cows – Primholstein.” protested by Nicolas Guerin, a cheese maker in the Donge, Loire-Atlantique. Mostly cows “stored above ground, fed with corn silage”, as the cream cheese maker Augustin Denoux writes in his book. Wild cheeses. However, there are many other varieties of cows that give milk suitable for consumption, but above all tasty: Breton black pirogue, Nantes, Armorican… However, due to the lack of farmers (and financial interests) to breed them, they disappear. In Brittany, the black magpie population has increased from 700,000 in the early 20th century to 1,600 in 2010. This breed is smaller than the Prigolstein and suffers from less “profitability”.

Gwell, typically Breton

However, it is the black pie that Nicolas Guérin and his partner Marika chose when they settled in 2015 to produce their cheeses. Because this little cow has more than one trick in her udder: her milk produces a typical Breton cheese, gwell, a kind of viscous, soft and creamy yoghurt that can be enjoyed both salty and sweet. “When we arrived, I was 34 years old, this was not my first life, Nicolas Guerin says We had no money, we only had the strength of our hands. We found a rental farm that has been run by Mar for thirty-five years.


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